Started off at the Rasher boulder. It was a little too warm to try the rasher traverse, so we all did Full Irish which is a nice little problem. Then for shits and giggles I gave the sit start problems on the steep face a go. Shocked myself by getting my hand 2 inches below the hold on the "7c" and on the hold on the "7b", but just couldn't hang it. I think these two problems might be a wee example of grade creep. I mean, compared to Leftism (which I couldn't even hope to pull on to the start) the "7c" felt like 7a+ or 7b. Its certainly never seen 7c in a million years. And the "7b" was more like 7a. Having said this, I didn't do the problems and I've never climbed a problem in the 7's so take all this with a big pinch of salt. Though I think they'll both go down with a bit more body tension and a bit more oomph. Will definitely be back to give a go. The Rasher traverse looks class too. Has anyone done a full traverse of this boulder? Would be monster!
Moved over to the Dice boulders next and had a bit of a mess around. Did a nice problem from a sidepull with a slopey topout, and tried yet another steep sitstart problem. Doable with a bit of effort, but I didn't fancy going arse first into the mud so couldn't really commit to the move. Noticed a cleaned arete that wasn't in the guide, so could be a project? Looks sickeningly hard. Though not as hard as the Dice Rib problem. That looks amazing. Gaskins has tried it apparently, and Barry said he's gotten pretty close. If these two beasts have been repulsed, it must be properly desperate.
John in flight on a desperate arete
Beneath La Joker. Tricky problem.Then wandered over to the Wow Prow boulder. The prow is hard for sure (and had some chalk on it...), pity its not a nicer line. Out of the boulders in Glenmac, that one probably has the worst quality rock. John made short work of John's (sharp bastard) Problem on the back. I flailed and gave up due to failing skin. We jumped around on the front of it for a bit. Wandered back down the valley for John to try Solidarity (I didn't even get my boots out, too fucked), then sacked it off home.
Suiting up
Trying the left hand version
BARNDOOR!Good session and the first time I'd been out bouldering in Wicklow since March. Will definitely be going back soon. We only went to 5 boulders and didn't make it halfway through the boulder field. And even on those few boulders there were still plenty of things still to be done. Is Glenmacnass the best bouldering location in Wicklow? Could be....
Peace out
4 comments:
Glad you enjoyed it. Glenmac is the kind of place you go too and think why don't I go here more often and then don't go for ages. The grades for the back of the Rasher problems are obviously wrong. I will sort that.
Very surprised to hear there was chalk on the Wow Prow. I wonder whos?
Did you guys put the stones in the bog below Solidarity, they wheren't there last time I was.
There is loads there alright.
The Foggs were up there with Tim a while ago. Might have been Harry? No, the little patio was there when I walked up there in the rain last year. Might have been those english guys from last year who did that problem up the seam left of Solidarity.
I remember seeing Dave and Rob Hunter trying the dice boulder project a good few years ago. I gave it a few goes myself. We all got pretty close but pretty close is not success :-)
As for the rasher, I kind of remember seeing Kev Cooper completing the full traverse but I'm getting older and my memory may be playing tricks!
Cool place, I should have ditched the relatives and gone! Let me know when you're heading again :)
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