Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Roundup

"Kill weeds and grass on patios, sidewalks, driveways, mulch beds, fence lines and landscaped garden areas."

Would the use of it to clear out a crag constitute gardening or chemical warfare?

Anyway. Been out a lot recently and fatigue combined with a job (boo, hiss) have conspired to let this corner of the intertubes lie fallow. But as my employment rapidly fades into the dim and hazy past (finished on friday), the time and inclination to spray has returned! In other words, its raining outside and me is bored.

The last wee while has been very entertaining on the trad front. First trip to fair head went down a treat. Amazing crag! And theres much more and much better than what we did i think. Really enjoyed the crack climbing and quickly learned to love the hand-jam. Even managed to get within 2m of the top of a long pitch before getting pumped and falling off! Its easy to see why the northern lads are so strong, to climb there often you have to be! Can't wait for college next year to try and get to grips with the place. And I discovered recently that one of the lecturers on my course is Paul Dunlop. Never met the man, but he's a bit of a legend so that could be interesting.

The following weekend was a solo day trip to the comeraghs. Great landscape and very interesting rock. Took a while to find my bearings though. Wandered up to Mahon Falls first as t'was most easily accessible. There are some routes up the cliff bands above the falls, but they look a bit scrappy and loose so are not exactly the most inspiring. Fair bit of bouldering potential on the low cliff bands on the left as you walk up to the falls though, could be worth a sortie. Then spent an unsuccessful hour and a half trying to find a shop in the area that accepted laser, decided "sod it, i've enough nutrigrains in the pack" and took off into the hills, and managed to completely miss Coumshingaun! You'd think a place that big and impressive would be a bit more obvious really....and that someone trying to find it might bother to bring a map and a compass....oh well, live and learn. Doubts started growing in my mind when what I thought was going to be "one of the best examples of a corrie lake in Europe", with massive cliffs on all sides, turned out to be a lakeless hollow in the side of a plateau with about 30m of scrappy conglomerate at the back. Fascoum has its charms, but is a bit disappointing compared to its neighbour. After a bit of entertaining scrambling round the sides, and a character building ascent of a gully, I wandered up on top of the plateau and looped around the back of Fascoum to find Coumshingaun in all its glory. Another character building gully experience later and I was down in the Coum chatting to the Foggs who were out for the day. Seconded Gerry on a nice new little route and had a guided tour on the way out of some of the best spots and some pretty cool looking bouldering. Harry has done some cool and savagely hard looking stuff in the area. I'll definitely be back up there. There aren't exactly too many other 45 degree overhangs within an hours drive of my house! :-)


Last weekend was the burren and my best day yet at Ailladie. Did The ocean and got up Skywalker with only one fall. Best go so far. Was wrecked on sunday and went bouldering in doolin. Didn't do anything, but tried Bigfoot and gave Sleepy Hollow a couple of half hearted goes. Both cool problems and worth going back for.


Was in the quarry last wednesday evening, falling off Tower Ridge Direct (reckon I'll do it next time), and again on Saturday. Soloed a heap of easy stuff on saturday, which was fun. Seconded Rich on Smouldering Stirrups, which felt nails. Failed abjectly of The Masochist, which was pathetic. Couldn't even do the pussy crux I did last time. Poor show really. Went to to crag in Glendo for the second time ever on Sunday. Must say I'm not too keen on the place. Loads of people around and a miserable slog of a walk in. Soloed some easy stuff on Expectancy, seconded Bren on a VS/HVS (?), and got completely bamboozled by the crux on an E1. I down climbed and Bren did it as he'd done it before. Did the move easily on second with some beta, but still annoyed with my poor onsighting ability. Ah well, all money in the bank.


Back on the scratcher this week, so plenty of time to get some things sorted that I've been putting off. As well as climb and train and generally stop being a lazy weak punter! The plan is fingerboarding, lots of pull ups, core and shoulder strengthening, and stamina training, but all between many many trips to crags :-) Heres hoping I don't fall off the wagon and can climb some stuff by the end of summer.


Plans for the immediate future are cragging in wicklow during the week (probably Luggala or Lough Dan) and possibly Muckross at the weekend. All weather dependant of course. If anyones interested in getting out cragging, get in touch. At the moment I'm free as a bird! :-)


Got some pics I'll throw up in a bit, but for now thats yer lot.


Peace Out

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