Training Daze

Boring training post alert

I've always valued strength in climbing. Probably more than technical ability or a cool head. Which shows in what I've managed to achieve (i.e. pathetically little). And I love training. Its my second sport. I view it as being entirely separate from climbing really. Realistically, most climbers are weak (even if they're good). Being a better climber would be nice, but I do not want to be weak. So, I figured going back to Ireland was a good time to start getting stronger again. I mean, I'm still gimped and unemployed. Theres shite all else to do!

My hero

Figured I'd set a few training goals:

- 1 proper one armer on each arm (used to be able to do a just-about one on the right arm)
- 5 second front lever (close to being able to hold one in good form)
- Hang the incut rung on the Beastmaker one armed, 1/2 crimp, each arm.
- Get through a full cycle of the Workout From Hell
- Campus 1-4-7


All these are pretty achievable really, and its keeping me busy through the idle hours of crippled non-working. The routine thats developed has been to spend 4 days a week in the gym as per the WFH, with the addition of half an hour on the stationary bike before weights, my core set between weight exercises, half an hour on the bike after weights, then finish with half an hour in the pool to help rehab the ankle. Of the other 3 days a week, one is a rest day where I only do a quick fingerboard session, and on the other 2 I do pullups, pushups, leg raises, and harder Beastmaker sessions.

There'll probably be some benefit to clambering about on rocks from all this, but the main goal is psychological. Taking a cue from Twight, I want to break myself mentally. See how far I can push on my own, then get comfortable at that point and push harder. After last year, I've got some ambitions in mind for the future, and a good conditioning to suffering is going to be important. As Twight himself says, "Theres no point in breaking yourself down in training, unless you rebuild into something better".

I'm rebuilding.

And its easier to not think about the shittier aspects of life when you're too tired to think.

Peace Out

p.s May well be moving to England or Scotland in the next few months. Think I'll get into dry tooling. Think I might like it

Eisprinz - Chapter one (with Markus Bendler) Indoor Training from Berni Kogler on Vimeo.