Ruminations

Its always hard to know what to write on this thing. Theres the constant balancing act to be done between whats on mind mind that I want to talk about, and what I want anyone and every to know. It can be a bit of a tightrope to walk sometimes, as I don't want this to be one of those "I went to x crag, and climbed this and this and this and.....". Its as boring to write as it is to read when coming from a chronic underachiever......*ahem*

The thing thats been on my mind most is the looming relocation to Canada. I'm about 90% psyched 10% neurotic about it really, as I see it being the start of a few years of a slightly unsettled existence. Which is no bad thing. Realised recently that I've subconsciously become a bit more settled and set in my ways than I like. Too used to a comfortable, steady, tipping-away-nicely lifestyle. Do not want. Want more. Different places, different kinds of people, different crags, different life. Thats what I want, and its what is in the immediate future, so I'm psyched. But theres always the 10%. I'm predisposed to overthink things a bit anyway, and this is a relatively big thing to think about (for me at least). So yeah....psyched, but there have been many ruminations.

Anyway, on a slightly less broody note, the 1st of March deadline has got me well psyched to get some stuff here finished off. Done a few things recently that have surprised me.....got Another Duffy Problem and Afro Left in a couple of goes each and did Andy's arete standup for the second time last Saturday. First time was 2008 I think. Its an awkward fucker of a thing, but felt relatively steady this time. Have to do the sitter now. Arse biscuits.

The thing I'm most psyched about is the Groove SS on Big Jane. Its the problem in fashion right now as someone (the Duffotron I think?) came up with a doable new sequence that all the punters can have a lash at. And it stays dry. There seems to always be someone in situ on it these days. I remember trying the thing for a laugh a couple of times with the 7C Gaskins sequence, and the possibility of ever doing it was so remote that I would have needed 2 planes, a jeep and a yak to get there. Played on it with Sean, Trish and Duggy a couple of weeks ago though and shocked the shit out of myself by doing all the moves! Can't be any more than 7B the new way, but its still the hardest bit of climbing I've done the moves on (apart from the 5.9 "death chimney" on Half Dome....didn't find out it was called that til afterwards thankfully). Went back with Jono last Saturday and got from sitting to the pinch at the start of the standup, then fell off out of shock. Gutted. Game on. It will be HAD. Props to Jono too, he did the Groove in a few goes then got though the hard bit on Leftism and up to the jug on R&S before falling off because the arete was wet like river. All after steak for breakfast and failing on a 5+. Monster.

Though all this "rock climbing" shit is quite fun, and has been pretty rewarding as rest day activity for when I'm feeling weak, I said at the top that I want this thing to be honest. Being honest, I feel like the pinnacle of climbing achievement is within reach. I feel like i really could be like Jerry/Ben/Rich. All the training, the fingerboarding, the pullups, the even more pullups, the rest, then the few more pullups after that.... I touched the 8 for the first time yesterday. I tickled it, but ultimately fell short. 1-5-7-and-three-quarters doesn't have much of a ring to it does it? 1-5-8 is a little bit better (and I reckon I can get there before going away). But 1-5-9...... they're the money numbers. And some day, some bright and beautiful day, a 1-5-9 will be mine and all will be right in the world. Thats real climbing.

Peace Out to sad, obsessive, power junkies everywhere.

I feel your pain.

Or it might be tendonitis....