Playing The Game

Headpointing seems like a very strange game that will take a bit of getting used to if I’m going to do more of it. Case in point: Bird Brain. I was all geared up to go for it on Saturday. Went up and down it on toprope and did the crux about 50 times. Then on the final practice go before going for it my foot started to slip unexpectedly. I had to walk away and was totally gutted. Maybe I’m not ready to try something like this? Maybe I should have practiced it less? Maybe the moon and the stars weren’t properly aligned in the house of Jupiter? I don’t know. But maybe success on bold headpointing comes with practice and I’ve got to gradually work up to this level of commitment. Time will tell on that one.

More food for thought is that I got The Bogey Man clean on toprope twice in a row and spied out some ok-ish skyhook placements below the crux. Technically much easier than BB (probably 5c, only 6a at a stretch), but 2 crux sections and theres actually some gear on it. The most frustrating thing is knowing that physically I’m able to do these routes very easily but mentally I’m not quite there yet. Though I can see myself doing these routes, and I really want to as they are truly inspiring bits of blankness. Hmmm.

In other news….Got up to the crux on Space Shuttle again, feeling rather good, but the single drop of water running down that face was drenching a crucial small foothold. Blast. Must make sure its totally dry next time. Wandered up the Ghost as consolation. Always good to have a relatively bold lead feel like a walk in the park, especially one as good as that. Hit the hold on that problem left of Alexandria for the first time, which was nice. And finally, put a minor battle to rest by doing Jeremy’s Problem by the steps. Spent 2 sessions last year getting utterly shut down on this thing, but got it first go this time (after watching John pull his usual trick of flashing something I’ve flailed miserably on for ages. Nice one man! :-) ). Always good to see gradual improvements though, and nice to use my feet while climbing (for a change). But I have the distinct feeling theres a foothold or two that weren't there last year…

Then spent a while messing around on another bit of inspiring blankness above the steps thats rumoured to have been done by some English guy back in the day. Its in need of a clean, but it’s a pretty cool bit of slab impossibleness. Four or five continuous brit 6c moves (very thin) lead to a harder move to get to the first actual hold about a metre from the top. Very cool. I could only do 1 or 2 of the lower moves and the top was too lichenous to even contemplate. One to go back to with a brush and some elbow grease.

I’ve got the car next weekend and am planning on heading to the Burren if anyone’s interested?

Its looking a bit drab around here so I’ll stick up some pretty pictures today/tomorrow/when I could be arsed. That’s it for now peeps.

Obese Trout y’all

p.s big props to MD for polishing off a quarry LGP on Sunday. Its his achievement to publicise if he so desires so I’ll say no more, but damn fine effort.