Progress?

I was in Glendalough on saturday. Had a good session, but didn't get to the top of anything unfortunately. On the other hand, this may not be a bad thing. I invariably find that climbs I can do easily/quickly, I walk away disappointed. Maybe not at first. That fleeting instant just when you reach the top is just that. I don't think I've climbed anything I'm truly proud of. Crash Landing and Bodystretcher were probably the most satisfying. Bushmills was a bit of a let down. And any other HVSes that I've done haven't been particularly memorable. Dunno what it is, I'm just looking for something. It's impossible to articulate, but I know that when I get it...even just a piece of it...BANG it'll feel right. This probably makes no sense. Hell, it doesn't make much sense to me. But things will become clearer in time.

So anyways, back to being shut down in glendo. I was up looking at the roof project. First time I've seen it dry. Had a detailed look at the holds and the top-out....Its fucking crazy! Anyone seen Dave Graham climbing Big Dragon in Dosage 2? Well take that two finger needle, transplant it onto an otherwise smooth, blank piece of vertical granite, then polish all the flat bits of the wall, and thats what you've got for your left hand. There are actually some holds for your right hand, but to keep connected with the rock is gonna take some crazy powerful compression! Think I'm gonna have to find me some fridges to lift... I didn't even pull-on this session. I don't want to try it until I feel I can give it an honest attempt. For now it can remain a pristine, unconquered thing of beauty, there to inspire until I feel ready...

In other news, work has well and truly started on Rhythm & Stealth. I linked it from standing to that crimp after the jug, but didn't want to risk going for the arete due to the lack of pads and spotters (yes I'm a pussy, something which has to be overcome). I was fairly happy when I latched the jug at all because I've wussed out of that move many times in the past. The sitter move is proving to be a bitch to figure out, I just can't find a way to pull on to the seemingly obvious starting crimp. I'm beginning to think its either a case of funky heel or toe hooking around the good holds further right, or actually starting from those holds in the first place. Also having trouble with the sequence up top. In underdeveloped, Ricky Bell bumps his right hand straight from the jug to the crimp. The Sheffield boys were matching on the jug then crossing over to the crimp with the right hand. I'm considering bumping my left hand from the crimp to the arete, catching the crimp with my right hand, then making a full-on dyno for the top. If that doesn't work, then Ricky's sequence is the way to try it I think. Matching just looked cumbersome. Hmm, time and spotters will tell...

And i got half a hand move further on Andy's Arete. So frustrating because i feel like i should have done that thing already. And yet, the thrill is in the fight.

Anyway, heres a distraction...http://youtube.com/watch?v=uo2RsX2lASg
The guy is magnificently mental. As well as presently being strong as an Ox, he's starting to rival The Dawes in utter weirdness of the written word. Respect.

Peace out